Public Face of Islam in Kumasi

By Gracia Clark

Placeholder text -- for Men

Aluminum Casting

Date: July 2009
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Aluminum casting has no logical connection to Islam, but has become an occupation identified with Muslims in Kumasi. Decades ago, the VALCO aluminum refinery at the Volta Dam produced quantities of scrap metal from its smelters and manufacturing processes. Northerners predominated in recycling cardboard, paper, and other metal scrap, so they became expert in recycling this aluminum into sturdy cooking pots of many sizes for sale all over Ghana. The complicated melting and casting process uses lost wax molds made of sand, also used by Asante brass and goldsmiths for making their renowned gold weight figures, gold jewelry, and even spare keys. The close-knit community of workshops in one spot helps expand markets fort he pots by reassuring buyers of their standard size and quality..

City Parade

Date: August 2011
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Video Footage Scene Comments Start (00:00:00) Families returning from the noon prayer at Kumasi Central Mosque on Eid-al-Fitr, 2011. 00:00:12 The followers of a popular local teacher surround him and his family, as the last vehicles allowed pass. 00:01:16 Note hawkers with head loads and pushcarts as the street clears. Pairs of young men and sets of women walk along. 00:01:40 Boys claiming good viewing positions near local vendors' tables and kiosks. 00:02:15 The first chiefs' umbrellas come into view at the top of the street. Community members crowd the street and watch from uncompleted buildings. 00:02:25 Muslim chiefs riding on trucks, using Asante-style umbrellas and wearing richly embroidered robes, typically Hausa. Their crowds of followers merge with onlookers. One group wears matching cloths and headscarves in bright green, a color favored by the Prophet. 00:03:31 Important attendant rides a horse, a very expensive luxury in this climate. A chief in Fulani-style dress with green veil displays a less Islamic ethnic tableau on the roof of the truck cab. Children in matching outfits ride in back. 00:03:40 Women and chief dancing on truck. Fly whisks made of horse's mane. 00:03:54 Upper Region ethnic drumming and dance. Men in smocks, some women in "traditional" non-Islamic dress. 00:04:25 Women in green uniform cloth with headscarves and/or lace veils dancing together. Men playing trombones. 00:05:00 Street level views of uniforms, hawkers. 00:05:20 Banner carried by constituents of local chief of Yoruba immigrants. 00:05:36 Young man in white brocade, showing off his horsemanship---or not. 00:06:00 Northern Region chief in embroidered smock, dancing for the crowd. 00:06:30 Ethnic chief of Upper Region residents in Kumasi. His Asante-style headband has gold medallions, and he wears a metallic brocade robe over a handwoven white and indigo smock. Followers hold banner with portraits of male and female leaders. 00:06:58 Sub-chiefs on horses with young sons riding in front. Note policemen passing by. 00:07:29 Zongo chief riding horse with gold trappings, in white flowing robes One set of palace guards wears red turbans, other elders in other matching turbans or outfits. Note men taking photos, two men holding umbrellas. Regalia include silver helmet, sheer lace veils on men and horse. 00:09:30 Crowds seen from our rooftop perch. Kente cloth umbrella in center shades the Asantehemma. Pickup trucks outnumber horses. Note slow and halting pace of parade, allowing more dancing. Men and women in casual modern dress join in. 00:12:00 Brass band with snare and bass drum. Good dancers show off for friends taking video. 00:13:14 Expert dancers from Upper Region whirl their heavy smocks, to music from traditional drums and clay flutes. 00:14:43 Drummer dances up to a "big man" in smock, who puts paper money on the drummer's forehead and then joins in the dancing. A young woman in "generic modern Ghanaian" pink cloth outfit tips drummer, then waves her pink purse and white handkerchief at "big man." When she starts dancing, he tips her liberally.

Pageant Enacting the Haj

Date: November 2011
Format: Image-MovingImage/mp4
Several months before it was time to start on the Hajj pilgrimage to Mecca, members of this mosque in Kumasi who had made the pilgrimage decided to stage this reenactment of the various stages of the ritual, so that those going that year would know what to expect. Since the pageant took place inside the mosque itself, its degree of realism was limited, but the coordinators took care to preserve the correct sequence of events. Quite a large group acted as the pilgrims and arrived by plane, settled at their camping site, mimed cleansing themselves and changed into white pilgrim garb. All those from Ghana would camp together, and some had Ghana or its flag on their uniforms. Cardboard models of rocky heights were placed strategically around the room, where the pilgrims would cast away the devil and visit the site where Abraham had offered to sacrifice Isaac. An ornately decorated cube in the center represented the Q'aba, which both male and female groups circled a number of times, as the ritual climax. The scene was somewhat chaotic, with various people shouting instructions, but it also served to popularize the pilgrimage among those who had not planned to go.

A Spare Parts Dealer

Date: August 26, 2009
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"We should take more business, but the money is small. That is why we cannot do what we would like to do."

Muslims Do Not Behave Like That

Date: 2006
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"You are supposed to live in mutual respect and kindness with your neighbor, if you have one, whether that neighbor is a believer or a non-believer."

Zacharia and Yakubu Discussion

Date: September 6, 2009
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"As a Muslim, your hands do not bother anyone, your mouth should not hurt anyone, your legs should not bother anyone, don't cheat, don't beat anyone, don't kill anyone, you see, this is what we call Muslim."

Community Historian

Date: 2011
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Community Historian

A leading community historian

Foot Washing Before Prayer

Date: 2009
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Foot Washing Before Prayer

Washing feet, hands, and face prepares Muslims for each of there five daily prayers.

Friday Prayer Group

Date: 2009
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Friday Prayer Group

This group of men gather on Fridays in a side yard on the grounds of the Central Mosque.

Learning Zongo History

Date: 2011
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Learning Zongo History

A leading elder explains the photographs in the Mossi chief's reception room.

Men Resting

Date: 2014
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Men Resting

Men waiting to meet with an elder.

Men Slideshow

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A range of dress styles compatible with Muslim identity for men

Tailor and Imam's Son

Date: 2006
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Tailor and Imam's Son

This tailor sews and embroiders men's and women's clothing. His father serves as Imam in another Ghanaian town.

Work Neighbors Pray Together

Date: 2009
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Work Neighbors Pray Together

Young men who work in this neighborhood regularly gather for noon prayer inside this roadside shop made from a shipping container.

Young Men

Date: 2009
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Young Men

Young men meet in an informal afternoon discussion group.

Zongo Chief

Date: August 2011
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Zongo Chief

The Zongo Chief in procession with his entourage.