Public Face of Islam in Kumasi

By Gracia Clark

Video Footages


Alternative Eid

Date: August 2011
Format: Image-MovingImage/mp4
Since the 1970s, a faction has been growing in Kumasi who adhere to more fundamentalist visions of Islam that condemn “unnecessary’’ prayers and rituals added to those prescribed by the Koran. Among those criticized are senior leaders in the Sufi brotherhoods, who offer special blessings and protections to their devout followers. Most of the established families of chiefs and imams in Ghana have historically been affiliated with the Khadiyya brotherhood, and look to North African centers for further education and religious authority. The Mohammediyya, as they call themselves, consider the Koran itself sufficient instruction and all other practices superstitious if not heretical. They particularly criticize the practice of pilgrimages to the graves of saintly Sufi figures in Senegal and Morocco, since only the pilgrimage to Mecca is mandated in the Koran. Exposure to Saudi authorities and practices has spread through the experience of youth traveling to Arabia on the prized scholarships given for secular university or Islamic study. Recordings of Saudi or other fundamentalist preachers also win many adherents, and Saudi Arabia has built and staffed many mosques within Ghana. Rivalries between the two camps have grown tense and occasionally trigger violent confrontations. The Mohammediyya, often younger and from less prominent Zongo families, sometimes preach openly against cherished traditional practices and leaders. Even without naming names, the younger relatives and followers of the traditional leaders will defend their reputations with insults and fists. They accuse the Mohammediyya of not respecting their elders, a Koranic mandate, while the more radical new preachers hint of magic charms and interpret as sorcery such practices as writing verses of the Koran on a slate, then washed off and drunk by the petitioner. The most serious expression of separatism came when the Mohammediyya established their own mosque for Friday Prayers, breaking the most fundamental symbol of unity for Kumasi Muslims. Other Kumasi Muslims who sympathize with their beliefs still attend Friday Prayers at the Central Mosque and lament the split. The dissidents claimed that praying behind the community elders risked weakening or contaminating their prayers, if that particular elder happened to be among those engaging in dubious magical rituals. Holding a separate prayer service to celebrate Eid al-Fitr, suggesting that the Chief Imam even holds his on the wrong day, makes a very conspicuous statement to fellow Muslims and the city at large.

Aluminum Casting

Date: July 2009
Format: Image-MovingImage/mp4
Aluminum casting has no logical connection to Islam, but has become an occupation identified with Muslims in Kumasi. Decades ago, the VALCO aluminum refinery at the Volta Dam produced quantities of scrap metal from its smelters and manufacturing processes. Northerners predominated in recycling cardboard, paper, and other metal scrap, so they became expert in recycling this aluminum into sturdy cooking pots of many sizes for sale all over Ghana. The complicated melting and casting process uses lost wax molds made of sand, also used by Asante brass and goldsmiths for making their renowned gold weight figures, gold jewelry, and even spare keys. The close-knit community of workshops in one spot helps expand markets fort he pots by reassuring buyers of their standard size and quality..

City Parade

Date: August 2011
Format: Image-MovingImage/mp4
Video Footage Scene Comments Start (00:00:00) Families returning from the noon prayer at Kumasi Central Mosque on Eid-al-Fitr, 2011. 00:00:12 The followers of a popular local teacher surround him and his family, as the last vehicles allowed pass. 00:01:16 Note hawkers with head loads and pushcarts as the street clears. Pairs of young men and sets of women walk along. 00:01:40 Boys claiming good viewing positions near local vendors' tables and kiosks. 00:02:15 The first chiefs' umbrellas come into view at the top of the street. Community members crowd the street and watch from uncompleted buildings. 00:02:25 Muslim chiefs riding on trucks, using Asante-style umbrellas and wearing richly embroidered robes, typically Hausa. Their crowds of followers merge with onlookers. One group wears matching cloths and headscarves in bright green, a color favored by the Prophet. 00:03:31 Important attendant rides a horse, a very expensive luxury in this climate. A chief in Fulani-style dress with green veil displays a less Islamic ethnic tableau on the roof of the truck cab. Children in matching outfits ride in back. 00:03:40 Women and chief dancing on truck. Fly whisks made of horse's mane. 00:03:54 Upper Region ethnic drumming and dance. Men in smocks, some women in "traditional" non-Islamic dress. 00:04:25 Women in green uniform cloth with headscarves and/or lace veils dancing together. Men playing trombones. 00:05:00 Street level views of uniforms, hawkers. 00:05:20 Banner carried by constituents of local chief of Yoruba immigrants. 00:05:36 Young man in white brocade, showing off his horsemanship---or not. 00:06:00 Northern Region chief in embroidered smock, dancing for the crowd. 00:06:30 Ethnic chief of Upper Region residents in Kumasi. His Asante-style headband has gold medallions, and he wears a metallic brocade robe over a handwoven white and indigo smock. Followers hold banner with portraits of male and female leaders. 00:06:58 Sub-chiefs on horses with young sons riding in front. Note policemen passing by. 00:07:29 Zongo chief riding horse with gold trappings, in white flowing robes One set of palace guards wears red turbans, other elders in other matching turbans or outfits. Note men taking photos, two men holding umbrellas. Regalia include silver helmet, sheer lace veils on men and horse. 00:09:30 Crowds seen from our rooftop perch. Kente cloth umbrella in center shades the Asantehemma. Pickup trucks outnumber horses. Note slow and halting pace of parade, allowing more dancing. Men and women in casual modern dress join in. 00:12:00 Brass band with snare and bass drum. Good dancers show off for friends taking video. 00:13:14 Expert dancers from Upper Region whirl their heavy smocks, to music from traditional drums and clay flutes. 00:14:43 Drummer dances up to a "big man" in smock, who puts paper money on the drummer's forehead and then joins in the dancing. A young woman in "generic modern Ghanaian" pink cloth outfit tips drummer, then waves her pink purse and white handkerchief at "big man." When she starts dancing, he tips her liberally.

Modern Wedding

Date: March 2012
Format: Image-MovingImage/mp4
Weddings are some of the most important family ceremonies in most cultures, and especially for Muslims because their religion calls for relatively simple funerals. In Ghana, as in much of West Africa, the bride and her mother demonstrate and bolster their social status by accumulating an impressive array of cloth and household items which the bride takes to her marital home. Displaying these goods, usually called a dowry, remains a prominent feature of the event even when the goods themselves include more that appeal to modern than traditional aspirations. Both mothers and teenage daughters in Kumasi can join special mutual savings groups that collect money in anticipation of the girls’ weddings. This wedding takes place in one of the older Muslim suburbs and provides a good example of the melding of traditional and modern elements. The ceremony begins with women kin and friends of the bride dancing in front of a huge display of furniture, electric appliances, suitcases, clothing and stacks of serving dishes. Members of the savings group dance wearing their uniform-a brown polo shirt with the name of the group printed on it. Other participants wear a variety of old and new fashions. The commentary of a master of ceremonies, speaking with a microphone, adds glamour to the atmosphere. Meanwhile, the groom is praying with male members of both families at a nearby mosque to solemnize the marriage. The festivities climax with the entry of the bride, not wearing white but some of her colorful new clothes. Her friends and family drop money on the ground before her, which a young attendant deftly collects before she steps on it. She meets the groom under an arch of balloons, where they dance together rather awkwardly before both turning to dance more comfortably with their familiar companions.

Pageant Enacting the Haj

Date: November 2011
Format: Image-MovingImage/mp4
Several months before it was time to start on the Hajj pilgrimage to Mecca, members of this mosque in Kumasi who had made the pilgrimage decided to stage this reenactment of the various stages of the ritual, so that those going that year would know what to expect. Since the pageant took place inside the mosque itself, its degree of realism was limited, but the coordinators took care to preserve the correct sequence of events. Quite a large group acted as the pilgrims and arrived by plane, settled at their camping site, mimed cleansing themselves and changed into white pilgrim garb. All those from Ghana would camp together, and some had Ghana or its flag on their uniforms. Cardboard models of rocky heights were placed strategically around the room, where the pilgrims would cast away the devil and visit the site where Abraham had offered to sacrifice Isaac. An ornately decorated cube in the center represented the Q'aba, which both male and female groups circled a number of times, as the ritual climax. The scene was somewhat chaotic, with various people shouting instructions, but it also served to popularize the pilgrimage among those who had not planned to go.

Ramadan Class for Bantama Women's Group

Date: September 6, 2009
Format: Image-MovingImage/mp4
Mallam Zacharia Rahmen tells two stories. The first is the story of Lot and his wife at Sodom. God sent his angel to warn Lot that he was going to destroy the earth because of the promiscuous behavior going on. He warned Lot to leave with his family and not look back, but when Lot's wife turned around, she turned into a pillar of salt. Mallam uses this story to preach against homosexuality. The second story is of Noah and the ark. Again, God wanted to rid the world of unbelievers and idol worshipers but preserve the believers on the ship. All those who did not board the ship perished in the flood. Quote: "It is ugly, it [homosexuality and promiscuity] makes God angry, but that is what's going on, Bantama some are here, Suame some are there, Asafo some are there, everywhere in Ghana you go some are there, God forbid, they are all over."

Vulcanizer

Date: 2014
Format: Image-MovingImage/mp4
Modest craftsmen like this man, who repairs car and truck tires, appear along all the major streets in Kumasi. His main investment is the vulcanizing machine itself, but his reputation for reliable workmanship ensures a steady clientele. Although he and his young son are Muslim work in a predominantly Muslim neighborhood, they look no different from other street side "fitters," specialists in transport-related repairs.

Interviews


A Spare Parts Dealer

Date: August 26, 2009
Format: Image-MovingImage/mp4
"We should take more business, but the money is small. That is why we cannot do what we would like to do."

Muslims Do Not Behave Like That

Date: 2006
Format: Image-MovingImage/mp4
"You are supposed to live in mutual respect and kindness with your neighbor, if you have one, whether that neighbor is a believer or a non-believer."

Zacharia and Yakubu Discussion

Date: September 6, 2009
Format: Image-MovingImage/mp4
"As a Muslim, your hands do not bother anyone, your mouth should not hurt anyone, your legs should not bother anyone, don't cheat, don't beat anyone, don't kill anyone, you see, this is what we call Muslim."

Images

A Dignified Exit

A Dignified Exit

Date: 2012
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A rich patron gets an enthusiastic sendoff.
A Trading Family

A Trading Family

Date: 2011
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This wealthy woman employs four of her children in her wholesale business.
A Typical Street Corner

A Typical Street Corner

Date: 2009
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A major street in a Muslim neighborhood.
All Boys Together

All Boys Together

Date: 2011
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Boys at a conservative Eid wearing a wide range of outfits.
An Islamic Public Primary School

An Islamic Public Primary School

Date: 2016
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The government approves the standard curriculum provided by both Islamic and Christian affiliated schools, which each add religious subjects.
An Outdoor Sermon

An Outdoor Sermon

Date: 2012
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The neighborhood imam preaches from the male end of the court.
Apartment Buildings

Apartment Buildings

Date: 2009
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Multistory buildings with stores on the ground floor and street stalls are common in the central city.
Apprentice Tailor

Apprentice Tailor

Date: 2011
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Boys can start apprenticeships for tailoring and other crafts in their early teens.
Bagging Goods

Bagging Goods

Date: 2011
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At home in her courtyard, this woman divides her goods into plastic bags ready to sell.

Basic Ceremonial Life

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Daily and life cycle rituals for Muslims
Blood Drive Supporters

Blood Drive Supporters

Date: 2016
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A street march downtown to promote blood donation.
Bodyguards of the Zongo Chief

Bodyguards of the Zongo Chief

Date: August 2011
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These red turbans are the insignia of the Zongo Chief's palace guard.
Boy with White Headdress

Boy with White Headdress

Date: 2012
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A local boy wears shining white and an Arab headdress for the occasion.
Boys in Headsresses

Boys in Headsresses

Date: 2011
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Three boys in gleaming white, wearing variations on Arab headdresses.
Boys with Tomato Boxes

Boys with Tomato Boxes

Date: 2011
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These young men receive tomatoes shipped from their native Upper East Region to their group in labeled boxes.
Brass Band

Brass Band

Date: August 2011
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A uniformed group singing with their brass band.
Bright Veil

Bright Veil

Date: 2011
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Brightly colored sheer lace veils like the white ones are also common.
Brothers and Friend

Brothers and Friend

Date: 2011
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Two brothers find a good spot for viewing the parade.
Brothers and Sisters

Brothers and Sisters

Date: 2011
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Brothers and sisters in dramatic kohl eye makeup, Arab style.
Buses and Trucks

Buses and Trucks

Date: 2009
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Freight trucks and passenger buses waiting to load up on the roadside.
Business District

Business District

Date: 2009
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A busy street in the central business district of the Zongo.
Buying Minutes

Buying Minutes

Date: 2009
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Roadside stands make prepaid phone cards available all over the city.

Carriers Slideshow

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Gracia will write a description.
Central Market Tailor

Central Market Tailor

Date: 2009
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A section of the Central Market is devoted to sewing and embroidery of typical Muslim styles for men and women, by men tailors.This young tailor makes men's and women's embroidered outfits, but wears denims himself.
Chicken for Ramadan

Chicken for Ramadan

Date: 2011
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A fishnet keeps these chickens securely inside an aluminum head pan.
Chicken Vendors

Chicken Vendors

Date: 2011
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Street vendors take a rest from the holiday rush.
Coed Islamic School

Coed Islamic School

Date: 2011
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Secondary school classes put boys and girls together in an Islamic public school.
Collecting Bale Straps

Collecting Bale Straps

Date: 2012
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A retired bale carrier now collects the discarded strapping for resale.
Community Historian

Community Historian

Date: 2011
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A leading community historian
Conservative Women

Conservative Women

Date: 2011
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Conservative women and girls at a conservative prayer celebration for Eid Al-Fitr.

Craft Workers Slideshow

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Gracia will add one.
Crowd as Chief Approaches

Crowd as Chief Approaches

Date: August 2011
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A diverse crowd watches the arrival of a chief.
Crowd of Women

Crowd of Women

Date: 2012
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Many women attend the school festival, keeping to one side of the grounds.
Crowded Balcony

Crowded Balcony

Date: August 2011
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Even an unfinished balcony on the parade route is full.
Crowds From the Mosque

Crowds From the Mosque

Date: August 2011
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Crowds filter back from praying at the Central Mosque before the procession begins.
Cultural Tableau

Cultural Tableau

Date: August 2011
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Children show off local produce and clothing, riding in front of a chief with Islamic high style green robe and turban and a companion in wild silk.
Dad and Kids En Route

Dad and Kids En Route

Date: 2011
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Very cool Dad with three matching kids in matching festival attire.
Dancing Chief

Dancing Chief

Date: August 2011
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Chiefs carried on palanquins or pickups dance to show their vigor and solidarity with onlookers and companions. Note the carpet covering the truck cab.
Daycare Near the Market

Daycare Near the Market

Date: 2009
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A childcare group downtown near a main bus stop.
Desert Style

Desert Style

Date: August 2011
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The light color and loose, flowing style of these robes offers good protection from heat, sand and drying wind in desert locations.
Determined to Study

Determined to Study

Date: 2016
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Dignitaries with Umbrellas

Dignitaries with Umbrellas

Date: 2012
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Only some of these honored guests wear the school’s green turban.
Dress Shop

Dress Shop

Date: 2011
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Nice dresses and jewelry go together.
Drummers and Dancers

Drummers and Dancers

Date: August 2011
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A band of drummers and dancers from the Upper Region accompanying their chief.
Elder Settling Dispute

Elder Settling Dispute

Date: 2011
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Learned elders can spend much of their time hearing disputes between local residents, who bring them to be decided according to Muslim principles.
Elderly Chief

Elderly Chief

Date: August 2011
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An elderly chief surrounded by his supporters in northern smocks.
Elderly Women Study

Elderly Women Study

Date: 2009
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Women elders use their leisure for religious study.
Elders in Robes

Elders in Robes

Date: 2011
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The traditional three-piece suit, worn here with long turbans wrapped to cover the neck. The turbans of white cotton or colored lace show each elder's position at court.
Elders Teaching Islamic Law

Elders Teaching Islamic Law

Date: 2011
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A leading local scholar gathers elders to study land law.
Embroidered Veil

Embroidered Veil

Date: 2011
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Black and dark brown or blue veils can be plain or richly decorated.
Exhibition Dancer

Exhibition Dancer

Date: August 2011
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Dancing with his heavy smock shows off the wealth and athleticism of this Upper Region man.

Families Celebrating Slideshow

Date: August 2011
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The whole family gathers with delicious food, gifts and new clothes.
Families Gathering

Families Gathering

Date: 2011
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All ages of women sit together at prayer; each family brings its own large mats.
Father-son Team

Father-son Team

Date: August 2011
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The crowds can make horses nervous, so riding has some danger.
Festival Organizers

Festival Organizers

Date: 2012
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School officials wearing their uniforms for the annual commemoration of the school’s founder.
Festival Souvenirs

Festival Souvenirs

Date: 2011
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His cart displays sunglasses and other festive items.
Five Friends

Five Friends

Date: 2011
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Five young men wear unique variations of a common style.
Following Behind

Following Behind

Date: August 2011
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Random onlookers follow behind a chief.
Following the Recitation

Following the Recitation

Date: 2016
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This earnest learner brought two books to follow along with the recitation.
Foot Washing Before Prayer

Foot Washing Before Prayer

Date: 2009
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Washing feet, hands, and face prepares Muslims for each of there five daily prayers.
Friday Prayer Group

Friday Prayer Group

Date: 2009
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This group of men gather on Fridays in a side yard on the grounds of the Central Mosque.
From Own Verandah

From Own Verandah

Date: August 2011
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This family can watch the parade passing in front of their house.
Gathering Grass

Gathering Grass

Date: 2016
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Fattening cattle in the city requires cutting grass for extra fodder.
Grand Smocks

Grand Smocks

Date: August 2011
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This chief and his companions display the most lavish possible examples of hand-woven smocks from the Upper Regions.
Guards with Hats

Guards with Hats

Date: August 2011
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This set of guards wears elaborate basketry hats typical of the far north of Ghana.
Hajia Habiba (1)

Hajia Habiba (1)

Date: 2011
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Hajia Habiba in her truck parts shop
Hajia Habiba (2)

Hajia Habiba (2)

Date: 2011
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Hajia Habiba dressed for heavy work
Hajia Habiba (3)

Hajia Habiba (3)

Date: 2011
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Hajia Habiba visiting a friend

Hardworking People Slideshow

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Muslims should be honest and hardworking, whatever their occupations.
Hat Variations

Hat Variations

Date: 2011
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A plain white robe highlights the political message of the shoulder scarf.
Head Carrier

Head Carrier

Date: 2011
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Women also make their living carrying heavy loads on their heads.
Headscarf Variations

Headscarf Variations

Date: 2011
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A line of women showing many variations in dress. From right to left: dark cotton print dress and matching head tie with a shoulder scarf; colorful hair beads with a short-sleeved dress printed with Islamic symbols; longer white headscarves showing beaded hair with long-sleeved white robes (2); Yoruba-style starched head tie matching a short-sleeved beige robe; beads only with long white robe (small child); white opaque veil covering head and shoulders and long-sleeved white robe.
Home from Shopping

Home from Shopping

Date: 2009
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Carrying a bag on the head and a baby on the back is usual In Ghana for Muslims and non-Muslims alike.
Huge Crowds

Huge Crowds

Date: August 2011
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The route in mid-parade, with people watching from houses and unfinished buildings.

Islamic Education Slideshow

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Some diverse venues offered to Kumasi Muslims for formal or informal education

Islamic Neighborhoods Slideshow

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Some parts of Kumasi are known as predominantly Muslim.
Kids with Style

Kids with Style

Date: 2012
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Contrasting styles for these boys; sisters in matching dresses.
Koran Class

Koran Class

Date: 2009
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Women gather at a local mosque to study the Koran on Fridays.
Late Arrivals

Late Arrivals

Date: 2012
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A family hurries to join the group already starting the prayer.
Learning to Pray

Learning to Pray

Date: 2006
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A toddler imitates her mother and other women at Friday prayers.
Learning Zongo History

Learning Zongo History

Date: 2011
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A leading elder explains the photographs in the Mossi chief's reception room.
Line of Horsemen

Line of Horsemen

Date: August 2011
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Riders in white robes wait for their chief to move on.
Local Scholar

Local Scholar

Date: August 2011
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A local scholar arrives from the mosque with his student followers.
Long Green Veil

Long Green Veil

Date: 2011
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Three close friends admire their friend's unusually long, opaque veil in a more Middle-eastern style.
Lunch Delivery

Lunch Delivery

Date: 2009
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A woman brings cooked food daily for sale to workers in a vehicle repair yard.
Magnificent in Red

Magnificent in Red

Date: August 2011
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Scarlet and gold robes and umbrella make these chiefs stand out from the crowd.
Making Mirror Frames

Making Mirror Frames

Date: 2011
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This workshop is located near an industrial sawmill, using offcuts to make frames for mirrors.
Malam and his Brother

Malam and his Brother

Date: 2009
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This teacher from a local mosque came with his brother to instruct us in the principles of Islam.
Marching in Uniform

Marching in Uniform

Date: 2014
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Kumasi Muslims marching in their ethnic group uniforms.
Matching Couple

Matching Couple

Date: 2011
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Proper dress for men and women need not vary much.
Men Gather for Prayer

Men Gather for Prayer

Date: 2011
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Men gathering for prayer at an Eid observance after Ramadan.
Men Outside their Kiosks

Men Outside their Kiosks

Date: 2009
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These men do business from converted shipping containers.
Men Resting

Men Resting

Date: 2014
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Men waiting to meet with an elder.

Men Slideshow

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A range of dress styles compatible with Muslim identity for men
Milk Vendor

Milk Vendor

Date: 2011
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Many vendors of branded snacks rent their equipment from the supplier and only make a commission on sales.
Mobile Cafe

Mobile Cafe

Date: 2011
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The coffee company supplies uniforms and carts shaped like their distinctive cans.
Mobile Peddlers

Mobile Peddlers

Date: 2011
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These three hawkers with headloads compete with a more established kiosk.
Modern Fashions

Modern Fashions

Date: 2011
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These two girls combine conservative veils with shorter dresses in a more European style.
Mossi and Housa Commentary

Mossi and Housa Commentary

Date: 2016
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A local scholar recites from the Koran, translating and explaining in Hausa, after which a younger man translates both into Mossi, a local language.
Mossi Chief and Followers at Mosque

Mossi Chief and Followers at Mosque

Date: 2016
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The Mossi chief sponsors daily Koran recitation at his mosque during Ramadan.
Most Traditional

Most Traditional

Date: August 2011
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This compact delegation includes all the highest status elements: horse, gold umbrella and concealing embroidered robe.
Motorcycle Shop

Motorcycle Shop

Date: 2011
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Muslim men predominate in motorcycle and moped sales here.
Neighborhood Chief Arriving

Neighborhood Chief Arriving

Date: 2012
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The chief of a Muslim neighborhood arrives for an Eid celebration held at the tennis courts of the Lebanese club.

Neighborhood Eid Slideshow

Date: 2012
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Gathering for prayers in a local park on a minor holiday
Neighborhood Imam

Neighborhood Imam

Date: 2012
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The neighborhood imam addresses the chief and assembled men.
Neighborly Group

Neighborly Group

Date: 2012
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A set of close neighbors and family attend the Eid together.
Nobles with Son

Nobles with Son

Date: August 2011
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This noble carries his young son in front of him on the horse. The guard, with the saffron turban, carries a silver spiral lance.
Nobles with Son

Nobles with Son

Date: August 2011
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This noble carries his young son in front of him on the horse. The guard, with the saffron turban, carries a silver spiral lance.
Notable Woman

Notable Woman

Date: August 2011
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This woman notable arrives in style near the end of the parade.

Notables Slideshow

Date: August 2011
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Chiefs and other public figures taking part in the parade
On the Carpet

On the Carpet

Date: August 2011
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This chief brought two young attendants onto the carpet with him.
On the Women's Side

On the Women's Side

Date: 2012
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The awning and chairs provided for women attending

One Women, Three Contexts

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A variety of dress styles Hajia Habiba appropriately wears in public.
Outshining her Truck

Outshining her Truck

Date: August 2011
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This notable woman rides on her own rented truck, wearing a flamboyant Yoruba-style headtie.
Packed Crowd

Packed Crowd

Date: August 2011
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A crowded street makes crossing difficult during the parade.
Palestinian Scarf

Palestinian Scarf

Date: 2011
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Pantsuit with Veil

Pantsuit with Veil

Date: 2012
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Although wearing a pantsuit, this young woman veils modestly.
Party Leaders' Photo

Party Leaders' Photo

Date: 2012
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In a presidential election year, party campaign materials keep this vendor in business.
Photography Shop

Photography Shop

Date: 2011
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Two young men take and process digital photos in their shop.
Political Party

Political Party

Date: August 2011
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Prominent political parties display their candidates in the parade.
Postcolonial Helmet

Postcolonial Helmet

Date: August 2011
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The ornate green helmet of this chief, like the silver helmet worn by the Zongo Chief, elaborates upon the British colonial pith helmet.
Poster of Mossi Elders

Poster of Mossi Elders

Date: 2016
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This poster in a chief’s reception room shows him and his elders.
Power Symbols

Power Symbols

Date: August 2011
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These chiefs display symbols of prestige from many sources: the wild silk smocks, the protective bundles containing verses from the Koran, the typically Akan umbrella, Hausa-style embroidery and a cell phone.
Preparing to March

Preparing to March

Date: August 2011
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Uniformed members of an ethnic group assemble before joining the parade.
Preschool High Style

Preschool High Style

Date: 2011
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Every variety of high style is represented here.

Professions Slideshow

Date: 2011
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Gracia will write one.
Proud Father and Sons

Proud Father and Sons

Date: 2011
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A taxi driver with his two sons ready for Eid Al-Fitr prayer.
Proud Grandfather

Proud Grandfather

Date: 2011
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A grandfather brings his grandsons to pray at Eid Al-Fitr
Proudly Named

Proudly Named

Date: 2006
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Her shop sign announces her Muslim faith and gender.
Respected Elder

Respected Elder

Date: 2011
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A respected elder in prestigious eyelet lace.
Returning from Prayers

Returning from Prayers

Date: August 2011
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After formal prayers and speeches at the Central Mosque, people secure their places on the parade route.
Returning Woman Student

Returning Woman Student

Date: 2006
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This woman takes afternoon classes in an Islamic public school after leaving school years ago.
Rich Combinations

Rich Combinations

Date: August 2011
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These chiefs combine Islamic talismans with white and embroidered robes over handwoven smocks typical of Ghana's Upper Regions.
Riding in Comfort

Riding in Comfort

Date: August 2011
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This dignified woman sits on a mattress made of pillows on the car roof.
Riding the Cab

Riding the Cab

Date: August 2011
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This chief wears Islamic colors sitting on a carpet on top of a gold truck.
Roadside Shop

Roadside Shop

Date: 2011
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A roadside convenience store with a little of everything.
School Classes in a Home

School Classes in a Home

Date: 2006
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This school teaches women both secular and Koranic subjects in a malama’s home.
School Colors

School Colors

Date: 2012
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Some young women wearing the school colors.

School Founder's Day Slideshow

Date: 2012
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A local Islamic school gathers on their deceased founder's birthday.
School Principal

School Principal

Date: 2011
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This man runs a government-certified Islamic public school that includes primary, junior and senior secondary classes.
Schoolgirl

Schoolgirl

Date: 2011
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One girl in long-sleeved dress and opaque white veil with a pencil.
Seamstress

Seamstress

Date: 2011
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Many seamstresses like this work from kiosks located near their homes.
See and Be Seen

See and Be Seen

Date: August 2011
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Two wealthy locals greet each other in their festive attire.
Senior Midwife

Senior Midwife

Date: 2016
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As a midwife in a rural district, she sometimes bringing women with labor difficulties to hospital on the back of her motorcycle.
Sharing a Book

Sharing a Book

Date: 2016
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The faithful share knowledge as well as food during Ramadan.
Shoemaker Apprentices

Shoemaker Apprentices

Date: 2009
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Both Muslim and Asante men make and repair shoes. This shop specializes in recycling uppers from imported secondhand shoes into new styles.

Spectators Slideshow

Date: August 2011
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Community members experience the parade.
Standard Veil

Standard Veil

Date: 2011
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In this very common style for formal occasions, a middle-aged woman wears a printed cotton log-sleeved blouse with matching skirt and head tie, adding sheer white veil over her head and shoulders.

Store Owners Slideshow

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Gracia will write a description.
Street Corner Business

Street Corner Business

Date: 2011
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Three occupations in less than ten feet.
Streetside Table

Streetside Table

Date: 2011
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Many Muslims sell and buy from simple tables by the sidewalk.
Students Adjusting Their Uniforms

Students Adjusting Their Uniforms

Date: 2012
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These boys in special uniforms prepare for a marching display.

Studying Koran Slideshow

Date: August 2011
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The Koran was given to Prophet Mohammed during Ramadan.
Tailor and Imam's Son

Tailor and Imam's Son

Date: 2006
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This tailor sews and embroiders men's and women's clothing. His father serves as Imam in another Ghanaian town.
Teenage Girlfriends

Teenage Girlfriends

Date: 2012
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Teen girls socialize with friends after the prayers.
The Asante Queen Mother

The Asante Queen Mother

Date: August 2011
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Representing the Asante royalty on this occasion, the Queen Mother's distinctive patterned umbrella echoes her pink kente cloth.
The Asantehemma's Entourage

The Asantehemma's Entourage

Date: August 2011
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Those accompanying the Asantehemma wear Islamic-themed attire.
The Blue Horse

The Blue Horse

Date: 2011
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This father carries his son in front like nobles in the parade did on their horses
The Chief's Photographer

The Chief's Photographer

Date: 2012
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The Muslim chief of a Kumasi neighborhood poses with his entourage for his own photographer.
The End of the Parade

The End of the Parade

Date: August 2011
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As dusk settles and the dignitaries have passed, private and group parties start along the route.
The Headmaster

The Headmaster

Date: 2012
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The headmaster of this Islamic school preaches a sermon at their annual festival.
Three Coordinated Chiefs

Three Coordinated Chiefs

Date: August 2011
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These three make an impressive appearance in coordinated scarlet and gold robes on richly decorated horses behaving well.
Three Matching Outfits

Three Matching Outfits

Date: 2011
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Like many, these three brothers got new matching outfits for Ramadan
Tires for Sale

Tires for Sale

Date: 2011
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Lightly used tires displayed in the neighborhood.
Token Veil

Token Veil

Date: 2011
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A woman wears her veil on one shoulder, with short sleeves.
Tots in Suits

Tots in Suits

Date: 2011
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Western formal dress also appears acceptable at an Eid prayer.

Trading in the Street Slideshow

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Public space often provides workspace, especially for traders.
Traditional Brass Pans

Traditional Brass Pans

Date: August 2011
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Young girls carry the brass pans containing shea butter and other traditional gifts for the palace.
Traffic Congestion

Traffic Congestion

Date: August 2011
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The slow pace of movement often forces delegations to a standstill.
Truck Drivers' Union

Truck Drivers' Union

Date: 2009
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This local branch of the Ghana Private Road Transport Union is predominantly Muslim.
Truck Mechanic

Truck Mechanic

Date: 2009
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This man runs a roadside truck repair workshop in a Muslim neighborhood.
Truck Parts Dealer

Truck Parts Dealer

Date: 2006
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In her shop on a major road in Magazine, a huge vehicle repair center, she sells double axles, diesel engines and crankshafts.
Turban and Lace

Turban and Lace

Date: August 2011
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Elaborate white-and-gold lace over a red car complements a saffron turban that covers most of this chief's head and neck.
Two Men Friends

Two Men Friends

Date: 2012
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Men also enjoy dressing well and greeting their friends and neighbors.
Uniform Turban

Uniform Turban

Date: 2011
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A man and boy among others with black turbans and gold skullcaps.
Unloading Bales

Unloading Bales

Date: 2012
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General stereotypes assume all these load carriers are from the North.
Urban Cattle

Urban Cattle

Date: 2011
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Herding, trading and slaughtering cattle in Kumasi are all occupations associated with Muslims, especially Fulani and Hausa.
Veil Shop

Veil Shop

Date: 2012
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This young married Muslim sells veils from Dubai, but is not wearing one.
Veiled Trouser Suit

Veiled Trouser Suit

Date: 2011
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This woman casually covers her cotton print pantsuit with a long veil.
Veiled Young Women

Veiled Young Women

Date: 2012
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These two girlfriends are more particular than average about veiling.
Veiling the Car

Veiling the Car

Date: August 2011
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The light cloth under this chief's flowing robe conceals most of the car.
Veils with Attitude

Veils with Attitude

Date: 2012
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Three young women with very different styles, but all with an identifiable veil.

Vendors Slideshow

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Gracia will write a description.
Visiting Grandma

Visiting Grandma

Date: 2006
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Mother brings her young son to visit his grandmother’s market stall.
Walking to the Mosque

Walking to the Mosque

Date: 2011
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A family walking together to Friday prayers.
Well Dressed Elder

Well Dressed Elder

Date: 2012
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An elder in his fine three-piece suit of blue damask.
Well Dressed Man

Well Dressed Man

Date: 2011
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The flowing white sleeveless over robe sets off the heavily embroidered outfit with a well-matched hat.
White and Red Contrast

White and Red Contrast

Date: August 2011
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White robes and a red umbrella set these chiefs apart from their attendants.
Woman Teacher

Woman Teacher

Date: 2011
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Teacher addressing a coed senior class in an Islamic public school.
Women at a Funeral

Women at a Funeral

Date: 2009
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The funeral of an aged mother held in the family home and attended by Muslims and Christians.
Women Going Somewhere

Women Going Somewhere

Date: 2011
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A group of women passing by in a Muslim neighborhood.
Women Relatives

Women Relatives

Date: 2014
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Sisters and wives of the Mossi chief's household with friends.

Women Slideshow

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A range of dress styles that express modesty and Islamic faith
Women Study the Koran

Women Study the Koran

Date: 2009
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These women enjoy their opportunity to learn.
Women Studying the Koran on Fridays

Women Studying the Koran on Fridays

Date: 2006
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Women attend a weekly Koran study class organized at a suburban public school and mosque.
Women's Class in Yard

Women's Class in Yard

Date: 2009
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These women gather on chairs under an awning to study the Koran.
Women's Koran Class

Women's Koran Class

Date: 2006
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This women’s class meets Friday in a local mosque to study the Koran.
Women's Section

Women's Section

Date: 2012
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Women and girls pray on one side, facing the backs of the men on the other court.
Work Neighbors Pray Together

Work Neighbors Pray Together

Date: 2009
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Young men who work in this neighborhood regularly gather for noon prayer inside this roadside shop made from a shipping container.
Young Educated Women

Young Educated Women

Date: 2012
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Devout university graduates working on interview translations.
Young Family

Young Family

Date: 2012
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A mother dressed up with her baby and young son.
Young Man

Young Man

Date: 2011
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Empressive embroidery is as acceptable as the color pink.
Young Men

Young Men

Date: 2009
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Young men meet in an informal afternoon discussion group.
Young Scholars

Young Scholars

Date: 2012
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Young boys wearing their uniform items creatively.
Young Woman Reads Koran

Young Woman Reads Koran

Date: 2009
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All ages study together by reading in unison.
Zongo Chief

Zongo Chief

Date: August 2011
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The Zongo Chief in procession with his entourage.
Zongo Chief

Zongo Chief

Date: August 2011
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The Zongo Chief in procession with his entourage
Zongo Chief's Horse

Zongo Chief's Horse

Date: August 2011
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The multiple layers of the Zongo Chief's costume even cover his horse with lace. The horse and flywhisk are symbols of high prestige connected to the northern savannah.

Maps

Trade Routes

Trade Routes

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Trans-Sahara trade routes linking Medieval Europe to the gold-producing Akan regions towards the southern coast.